Gran Passione 2021, Botter, Italy (v)

We can’t pretend this is handcrafted by a gnarled vignaiolo, but rather a ‘concept’ wine from Botter, a family business started in the 1920s in a small town near Venice, wholesaling bulk wine. They now own 23 brands across Italy, of which Gran Passione is one.

Botter say the wine is for “classic-enthusiasts, hedonists who know how to carve out time in a fast-paced society and devote it to whatever makes them happy.” We say it’s for people who want a rich, warming, smooth red.

Made from Merlot and Corvina - the main grape in Valpolicella and Amarone - grapes are picked when overripe and starting to dry out, which reduces the water content and concentrates the sugars, giving a rich, sweet fruit flavour. This is the wine to serve with cheese. We’ve not met one it doesn’t stand up to - from Epoisses to Roquefort. But do report back if you discover its nemesis.