Dolcetto d'Alba 'Angeli' 2021, Roberto Sarotto, Italy

This Dolcetto is what put Sarotto on the map in the UK, back in the 1900s, when they vinified their Dolcetto grapes at the local co-op and shipped in bulk to thirsty Edwardians. When seventh-generation Roberto came on board, winemaking was brought in-house.

Piedmont is a treasure trove of grapes, the queen of them being Nebbiolo (which makes Barolo and Barbaresco). Wines made from Dolcetto are seen as a bit more everyday by people in the Langhe because it is fruitier and more approachable. It doesn’t need a decade in a cellar. And an unoaked version like this is great with a platter of salumi. It’s a bit of a red cherry bomb, but not jammy or thick in anyway.

Quite silky in fact, with a gentle grip at the end. There’s a streak of licorice running through with some bitter leaves and a hint of cocoa. The label might be plain, but this wine is certainly not.

Great with a Sunday roast.