Cantayano 2017, Isaac Cantalapiedra, Spain
Cantayano 2017, Isaac Cantalapiedra, Spain

Cantayano 2017, Isaac Cantalapiedra, Spain

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Verdejo in a Burgundy style; complex, textured yet fresh

Picture the scene. You’re driving through the hot, flat Rueda wine region. The countryside looks more like Narcos Mexico than two hours’ drive north of Madrid. It’s the land of Verdejo, which makes fruity, gluggable, often unremarkable whites. You turn onto a dusty road which takes you to a small winery that looks more like a house.

Inside, a young winemaker called Manuel is on a mission to show that world that Verdejo is capable of so much more. Harvesting later, frming organically and from single vineyard plots, his wines are almost Burgundian.

He named his winery after his grape-growing father Isaac - who sidles in with a much-needed plate of jamon. It’s a good match with the wine...